Hi Laurie -

I am far from an expert, but to me that means knit 2 round then increase on the 3rd.

I think the main thing is to do it consistently the same way, but again, I'm no expert!

uh oh... If you're knitting in the round, you should do your swatch in the round too. Most people knit at a different tension than they purl at, and working in the round is all knit.

This is the cause of many elephant sweaters and mouse sweaters.

And you should wash and dry your swatch the same way you're going to wash and dry your garment, because stuff gets dirty, and you have to wash it, and yarn is sometimes wound under tension, so it relaxes when it gets wet, and poof, your garment is too small.

Gee it's so nice that you have a helper nearby!

I THINK it's increase on the third round. The sweater I'm working on right now has the same kind of thing, increase every 8 rounds and I am doing them on the 8th round. I think as long as you stay consistent throughout the pattern and both gloves, you'll be fine.

PS, Bob has the CUTEST little kitty fingers. He looks like he is wearing little white gloves!

Work two and increase on the third.

I used to be a total math whiz so I can say with certainty that it is knit two rounds and increase on the third.

I can also say with certainty that I stopped being a math whiz as soon as my gazillion-variable-calculus professor started using Greek letters I'd never heard of as variables.

Finally read through... as long as you end up with the right width at the right length, it doesn't matter how often you increase (every third round, or every fourth as you have been.) If you find yourself getting close to the length you want but haven't done enough increases, you can do a few every other round, and it won't be wrong.

the directions mean the first way you listed, increase on the 3rd round - then knit 1 round, 2nd round, increase on 3rd.

The way you're doing it will make it longer before getting to the full width. On a glove, it may matter. Say you started with 30 stitches and are increasing two stitches on the increase rows. Increasing every 4th row, you knit 20 rows before getting 10 stitches of increase. If you increase every 3rd row, you only knit 15 rows to get those 10 new stitches. That 5 rows could be an inch in length and it may matter on a glove. If you haven't gone too far, you may be able to compensate by increasing every other row to catch up to how many stitches around you should be at the distance from the cuff. It'd be best to try to figure it out -- how many increases you need, and how many extra rows you'll be doing by increasing every 4th row. Check with your swatch and see if the rows will be significant. Then if you need to rip back, surely you won't have to go back to the beginning, but perhaps only 2 or 3 rows. (this makes sense in my head; I can only hope the words do. I work better with sketches on napkins.)

I love your Bob. He's adorable. Not to put Soba & Frankie down, I think it's just easier for me to see expressions on lighter colors.

You are very brave to be knitting on those tiny dpns! I knit one sock that way, with much swearing and poking and picking up of stitches when a needle fell out, and ran screaming for magic loop. Love the color of the gloves!

Oh pretty...you already have enough advice on the increases, I'll refrain from comment on that!

Just keep working with the tiny yarn and you will come to love it as all of us sock knitters. I honestly think I feel the stitches a bit more than I see them when sock knitting. And as someone commented on needles slidding out, I find the bamboo better than metal to fix that problem, unless you want to treat yourself to the Signature Arts dpns, which are just fabulous metal needles, but pricey. I got mine as a birthday gift and I do love them.

Aha! just checked a mitten pattern I've used. The gauge is more like 9-10 rows per inch, so it may not matter at all. But I would tend to change to every 3rd row, leaving a post-it note for the 2nd glove to do it the same, what row I changed from every 4th to every 3rd.

I've loved your product recommendations -- the almond shower oil, the cleaning tips. I'll pass one on to you. If you like the little double-pointed needles at all, look for Blue Sky Alpaca rosewood dpns, they come in a little tin, darling! Bamboo tends to split and need filing, metal ones slide out of the yarn too easy, and i haven't even seen plastic ones in size 0-3.

I solved the starting out (and over and over) problem by starting at the other end and using the magic circle and a crochet hook and picking up the beginning stitches from the circle. Then I transfer the stitches to my circular - I magic loop- or you could put them on your DPN's. I work my way backwards and it all comes out. But that's just me.

Those are going to be some awesome gloves. I say every third round too, and I also say measure and figure out where you're supposed to end up, and as long as you get there you can increase every fourth round half the time and every second the other half and it should be fine.

My helpers like to sit directly on the knitting while I'm knitting it. It is easier to supervise that way.

I've never worked with Noro sock yarn and don't intend to because it's single, and even plied yarns have a tendency to go twisty on me when I'm working very tightly in the round with itty-bitty needles. (Single = one strand; plied = two or more strands twisted around each other. When you spin you (usually) go clockwise; when you ply you go counterclockwise, and you balance the twist. A single can be unruly because it's twisted only one way.

You should look into the Knitting in the round on two circulars method... it seems complicated at first but once you get it, it's very easy and a zillion times less fiddly than DPNs.

Signed,
DPN Hater.

I would probably increase on the third round, but only after much kvetching and complaining about it. I hate it when the directions are unclear. Patterns should be written like a college lab report - so that someone who has never done it can replicate it.

Also - I heart Noro!

Sidney's given good advice. I'll just add that Noro Kureyon Sock is one of my favorites and even though it is a single, it seems pretty balanced to me and I've knit everything from socks to garments with it. Also, it gets MUCH softer with use/washing.

Oops, I owe you a parenthesis. Here it is:

)

What the others said.
1. Increase in rounds 3, 6, etc. Your way -- and know that you are not the first (or even the tenth) knitter who wondered exactly what this instruction meant -- will make the gusset section too long before you reach the desired width. But who knows, maybe it will fit anyway?!

ii. Theoretically you should swatch in the round if you are swatching or a knit-in-the-round project. An easy way to do this is to make your swatch as though it were a 50-stitch I-cord. In other words, cast on using the dpn or circ you plan to use for the project; when you reach the end of each row, including the cast on, slide the knitting to the right hand end of the right needle, move the needle to your left hand, and bring the yarn from what is now the left-hand end of the left needle to the right-hand end, and knit another row. That way you are creating a stockinette swatch without that annoying join-without-twisting thing.

C. Always swatch using the exact needle you plan to use for the project. Minute differences in needle slipperiness or diameter can change your gauge. It might not affect something as small as gloves, but it could affect a larger piece.

IV. Wash and dry your swatch exactly like you plan to wash and dry the garment. Yarn and knitted garments do mysterious things when they get wet. They stretch, they shrink, they become shape-shifters.

I just knitted a pair of shorts that had similar phrasing for the gusset and it also provided total number of rows at the end of that section. Based upon my "perfect" accountant's math from that pattern, yours would mean knit 2 rows and increase on the 3rd. But, hey, knitting is an art, not a science! I say you do whatever you want! :-)

I cast onto a straight needle and then transfer to my DPNs... and if I decide to use magic loop I usually transfer to the circ a few rounds later, once it's all feeling a little more solid.

I am currently knitting my very first sock, but I have like a dozen small sock yarn companies bookmarked because sock yarn is so pretty!!!

Here's how my grandmother taught me to cast onto dps (aluminum, no less--it was a long time ago): put a soft pillow or folded blanket on the table; lay your needles on it and you can untwist your stitches and join with no (ok, maybe some) problem. I've been knitting for 128 years or so and still do it this way, especially with lace needles.

When I follow instructions like that I read them as knit 2 rows plain and then increase on the 3rd row, but as long as you are consistent and are getting the fabric/size you like then it is all golden.

1) Bob is sure handsome!
2) I love circulars but only use them to make afghans. I am 'afraid' of the 4 DPN's. They look so complicated.
3) Swatches seem like so much work..I am much too impatient for them..which is probably why I only make afghans.
4) Loved your socks ...they were awesome!

I would increase on the third round if I saw that instruction.

I believe the 'correct' way to do it is do the increase on the third round. Then knit two more plain, then increase, etc......

Yes, knit 2 rounds, then increase on the 3rd.

I think if you continue doing the increases every 4th round, one of two things will happen:

1. The circumference of the thumb will be too small and your thumb will not fit through it;

2. The coming-together of the thumb with the body (the "V" where your thumb meets the hand) will be up too high, closer to the base of your pointer finger.

Maybe, as others have suggested, increasing every second round as some point will get things back on track.

Good luck!

I can knit an aran pattern with aplomb, but "knitting in the round" by either means is beyond me, (talk about getting my ....... in a twist), so cannot help with your query. Good thing there's already a common consensus. Looking forward to the results ... if I make it to 2019! Laura UK

First, congratulations for breaking into the world of gloves!!

Second, I agree, Bob is the handsomest helper I've seen in a long time for mathyness while knitting. :)

Finally, I would read the pattern like you have, as long as you are consistent and make the other glove the same way who will know if you don't tell them?

I love when knitting happens and no one else knows HOW it happened unless I tell "the secret of the needles," for instance, were there DPN's or circular needles involved, kind of doesn't matter when people are impressed that you can knit and do anything else at the same time. :D

One trick I read to cast on to DPN's (mentioned above) is cast on all stitches on 1 DPN and then knit the required number with the other needles. You can work one or two rounds without joining and at that point it's easier to see that you are not twisting the stitches when you do join. Just use the yarn tail to sew up the two non-joined rows, you have to weave it in anyway.

Just remember you are only knitting with 2 needles at a time. You know how to do that! Beware, knitting small things on DPN's is addictive. I didn't heed the warnings and now I'm addicted to socks!

First, congratulations for breaking into the world of gloves!!

Second, I agree, Bob is the handsomest helper I've seen in a long time for mathyness while knitting. :)

Finally, I would read the pattern like you have, as long as you are consistent and make the other glove the same way who will know if you don't tell them?

I love when knitting happens and no one else knows HOW it happened unless I tell "the secret of the needles," for instance, were there DPN's or circular needles involved, kind of doesn't matter when people are impressed that you can knit and do anything else at the same time. :D

I wish you well with your gloves - I've only ever made fingerless mitts (so I've made a grand total of 2 thumb gussets!) My take on the increase question is knit 2 and increase on the 3rd. But consistent is consistent, so no worries. I am going to have to check out that handy knitting patterns book - going to Amazon right now. I just started a baby blanket with a pattern that I made up myself, and the mathiness of it all is freaking me out.

Bob, I think I love you.

if you are knitting the garment in the round, you should knit the swatch in the round!!!! your gauge can be significantly different :)

I was just going to say exactly what Sidney (post #2) already said... so... yeah :o)

Congrats on making gloves!!! I've successfully made one glove, and I don't anticipate the second one being started anytime soon. That's just because I loathe small diameter circular knitting ;o)

On the subject of casting on for circular knitting...

When you've cast on, it's good to try to join so that the knitting is not twisted, but not essential.

I've worked and worked to make sure that I joined without twisting only to be surprised later that it had twisted anyway. Eventually, I discovered that even if you join and it isn't twisted, you can STILL develop a twist between the first and second row!

The point that it's critical that you make sure your knitting isn't twisted is the SECOND row! If you've finished the second row and are about to start the third row, CHECK CAREFULLY to see that it isn't twisted. At that point, all you have joining the two ends is ONE STRAND of yarn, which can easily be twisted a bit more (or less) to make it right! And doing that is completely invisible!

In fact, if you make a mistake and discover it at the end of the third row, when you're about to start the fourth row, you can fix it by just twisting two strands of yarn, which is ALMOST invisible. Check your tolerance for redoing against your tolerance for mistakes before you decide to completely redo.

I don't know why directions always tell you to check on the first row and lead you to believe it's unfixable after that, because it's NOT! In fact, even if you do it right on the first row, you still may find a twist!

Also, sometimes, if you're joining with DP needles, it fights back, and it may be nearly impossible to join without twisting, so you can still fix it on the second row.

Good luck!

Bob is such a good helper! I'm so glad to see I'm not the only one who has furry helpers at the ready - when I pull out my knitting, or my book, or a magazine, or...pretty much anything!

You're brave to start gloves instead of mittens. All those fiddly fingers drove me nuts, so I abandoned the first glove set I tried to knit. I love working on socks, though!

As I read your post, I thought "Oh no! She didn't swatch in the round!" but others have beat me to it. Well, so what? Have fun with the project and if they don't fit correctly, you'll have learned something from it, right?

If you enjoy knitting in the round with just plain pudding knitting, I'm sure you're going to love to knit socks. And you can wear them year-round in LA. Bonus.

Take care and knit well.

lucky for you, you have much help here already. because alas, I am a yarn hooker. I wish I could knit. Lord know's I've tried. one hook is much less cumbersome than two sticks. you do very nice work, I am envious.

As others have said, I believe your instructions mean to knit 2 rows and increase on the 3rd. I've given up on trying to join without twisting and now do the first two or three rows going back and forth then joining. That way I can see what I'm doing and it gives me a place to use the end from casting on - I sew my little bitty seam with it :)

I wonder what else you can make with sock yarn? I love it but I'm not ready to go there yet. A scarf maybe?

Thank you for asking this question, and thank you everyone for answering it. Every time I encounter a knitting instruction phrased that way I wonder the same thing!!

Yep, knit 2 rounds, then increase on the 3rd.

Did anyone mention the easy way to start circ knitting by knitting flat for a few rows, then joining to make a round? When the project is done, use the tail of the cast on yarn to sew the few seam stitches up.

1. Don't panic. Just count the row you're on, and from there start knitting 2 rounds, increase on the third. Do the exact same thing on the second glove, and it's fine.

2. You are frickin' awesome for trying to knit on FOUR tiny sticks with (almost) thread. I have sticks that size, and yarn that thin, but haven't worked up the courage to try. Thanks for the inspiration.

3. The fact that you swatch at all puts you leagues ahead of me. I've made about 50 giant hats--you'd think I'd learn to swatch...

Can't wait to see them finished. I'll be waiting in 2019...

I knit a glove once. Although I knit socks like world peace depends on it, the whole finger thing on gloves gave me a funny twitch. I still have that glove, and I have no desire to knit it's brother (or sister...) And I think it's knit two rounds, increase in the 3rd. Good luck!

Like most others here I say it's knit two rounds, increase on the third.
Really, you should check into knitting on two circulars. It's much, much easier than dpn's. I am discovering I can knit just about anything in the round with two circulars. Hats, socks, tabi, gloves, pet sweaters.
Such awesome Bobness this morning.

Unless you have a line that tells you "on this row you should have X # of stitches" you can increase on row 3 or row 4 as long as you are consistent.

Gloves are fun until the fingers. I'm crap at the base of the finger (I leave holes or pinch up parts). EZ or Meg Swanson has a glove pattern and the fingers are I-cords. I have to check that one out. I might do better.

I knit EVERYTHING on circulars, even if I don't have to. I am an Addi Turbo snob, you wouldn't believe how many of them I have. I tried knitting some socks in the round on some teeny tiny tiny teeny 9" circulars, the needles were about the size of a needle, too hard to use so I gave up. Your yarn you chose is lovely.

AS everyone else has said, I'd be increasing on the third round. Having said that, I cannot knit with a circular needle - give me the old fashioned 2 or 4 needles any time. And I'm embarrassed to say I can never, ever be bothered doing the tension test which if course results in many strange shaped garments! You would think that I'd learn ........

Bob is soooo cute and he does look like he has little white gloves on! Delicious color for the gloves! I've become stuck in fingerless glove land and love it. Started with "Fetching" from Knitty.com and went on to "Voodoo" wristwarmers and now, with the thumb info from "Fetching" am creating all kinds of versions; long, short, with and without cables and ribs. Knit "Knucks" (again Knitty) for a friend and it had some good techniques for fingers. I've found I'm in love with Brittany 5" DP's (actually any 5" DP). No stabbing body parts with protruding 7" DP's! Also as I knit I periodically move stitches over to the next needle on an entire row to prevent any ladders. Sort of like musical chairs: stand up, everyone move 1 or 2 to the right (or left) and sit. Only difference is, every stitch still has a seat! Clear as mud?

Anyhow, have fun, I love my 5" DPs!! Can't wait to see the finished gloves!

As a regular sock knitter I know the fun/pain of little needles and little yarn. But the end product is so worth it!

I would interpret that as Knit 2 rows, increase on the third.

I must be really weird, because I actually prefer dpns. I've done three projects on circs and did not enjoy them at all. Part of it was they got all twisty yes, but also I hate how it all bunches together and you keep having to push it and pull it until the stitches get to the other needle. It's obnoxious. Any suggestions?

Enjoy your gloves! Can't wait to see them!

Laurie... since you have over 300 responses from well-meaning blog friends with great ideas for movies worth seeing I am repeating my suggestion in case it got over looked. I so believe you need to see "My Brilliant Career" with Judy Davis. Its an older film (probably late 60s) but its a perfect film for you to see. Its an Australian film. My all-time number one favorite. I hope you find it and view it. If you can't find it anywhere I own a copy of it and will be glad to send it to you to view.

I love that book! I use it all the time to make socks, I love making plain old socks using multicolored yarn that happens to strike my fancy.

Did you know that the author of that book, (Ann Budd) has a blog too?

http://annbuddknits.blogspot.com/

Can't wait to see how your gloves turn out!

Yep, knit 2 increase on the 3rd. But you know that by now.

Yes, it means increase on the third row but it may not make much difference. It's based on your vertical gauge (rows per inch as opposed to stitches per inch) and will only come out "right" if you are getting the correct vertical gauge AND the correct horizontal gauge which I think has happened to me approximately once.

Also, I agree with what people say about knitting swatches in the round and washing and blocking them. However, with small projects like gloves and socks I never bother to do a gauge swatch at all, so you are already a step ahead of me and I'm not about to start casting stones.

I agree, it's knit 2 rows and increase in the third. I also agree that if you are knitting in the round, you should also do your guage swatch in the round.

Just to be a rebel here, although all patterns for in the round knitting say to make sure the cast on isn't twisted before you join, it isn't quite true and it's one of the biggest complaints I've heard from those new to DPN's and circular needles. Yes, if you knit into that twist you will end up with a mobius and the twist will never come out, however, you can easily take any twist out by twirling the needle with the twist around the end of the next needle until the twist is gone before you knit in to it. This is with DPN's. With a twist in the cast on on a circular needle, just keep pushing the twist back to the left as you knit until get to the space where you joined and then twirl the needle tips around each other until the twist is gone. This is much easier than trying to straighten it before you join. Try it and see.

I've knit about a bazillion socks on 2 circulars and about a half a bazillion ago I started knitting the first row plain before starting the second row in ribbing. On size 0 needles it saves lots of swearing and hair pulling and it makes no difference in the way it looks.

I just bought that book, too. I'm sure it will be another essential go-to book just like Knit Fix: Problem Solving for Knitters by Lisa Kartus.

Like Katie I've used dpns and circs and really prefer dpns. I've knit a few socks and am addicted.

Love the yarn and colors! Keep us posted with teh progress.

The pattern needs an editor, and should say every 3rd round. Also, I was going to suggest a hint I read on joining a circle, which is to knit one row without joining, then it's easier to see whether the row is twisted. When you sew in your ends, you can join the first row and no one will ever know. But then I read Vicki in So. Cal's comment (two before mine), and I'm amazed. Can this be true?? I'll have to test it.
Thanks a million little tiny stitches, Vicki.

i would have to agree with Cheri - do Magic loop. Those double points will drive you bananas.

Oh, and you may know this already - but you can cast on your circular and do 2 or 3 rows normal back and forth and THEN join the round. you can just sew up that extra little bit at the beginning with the tail. but it makes it much easier to get a more even cast on.

I'm sure others have told you this - but it's every 3rd round. Another way of saying it would be "once every three rounds."

I love my itty-bitty DPNs.

Dang-- I'm just here to send my condolences on possibly needing to frog part of that lovely work. I was mentally swearing for you after each commenter that said you might be in trouble.
I know how those tiny stitches can drive a gal insane. Don't get discouraged! They will turn out lovely. :)

I always use two circulars when the pattern calls for DP. Put the Stiches for the first two needles on the first circular, and the stitches for the third and fourth needles on the second circular. Easy Peasy.

http://sewingneedlework.suite101.com/article.cfm/knitting_socks_on_two_circular_needles

I just wanted to add that I always work a plain knit row after I cast on in the round. But actually now that I think about it that's because I have a funky cast-on that doesn't end up with a half-knit stitch (loop, maybe, is what it's called?) so if I don't knit a plain row things get funky.

I'm also a big fan of "creative pattern interpretation." (what? my thumb gusset ended up three inches above where it was supposed to? oh, yeah. I wanted a longer cuff. all part of the plan.)

Heather at 11:52 - check out Knit So Fine. You can knit anything out of sock yarn.

am loving Bob (can't advise with needles etc) Helen x www.happinesskindled.blogspot.com

My feline helper likes to lay on my lap and drape one paw on the yarn. Not a problem, as long as she keeps her claws sheathed! She gets a little leery of the dpns waving around, and has managed to be poked a time or two. I have a problem with laddering at the joins between dpns, so now I'm using the Magic Loop (40" Addi circular!) for socks, and that doesn't faze Miss Hinky Boo at all. When I move from one side of the knitting to the other, the last knit stitches are on the cable and the next stitch can be placed super close -- no more laddering!

it means knit 2 rounds and increase during the 3rd round of knitting.

Your cat is adorable!!! Mine tend to be right there whenever I'm trying to do something too! So cute!

I have made several socks out of the Noro, which I love, but I wanted to warn you that it is a very stiff yarn, and your hands might get cramped and tired. Just take a break, and then go back to it. It does soften up very nicely in the wash.
I don't want you to think that your hands are getting tired from the teeny tiny needles, when it is actually the yarn!

It's definitely like this: plain round, plain round, increase round. Plain round, plain round, increase round.

Also, on the joining in the round, especially on circulars, you can knit row or even two back and forth and THEN join them. You'll be better able to see whether the knitting is twisted before you join, and the little gap this leaves is easy to pull together with your yarn tail (from the cast on.)

I made my first gloves out of Silk Garden Lite last year and I love them. Of course that could be because they are almost elbow length and there's something very glamorous about that, no? The pattern I had called for knitting flat and then seaming, it was kind of fun, you may want to try that at some point.

Don't panic about joining your cast on into a round. Do the best you can to straighten things out, then knit 1 round. Before you begin the second round, check again to make sure you don't have a twist. At this point, there's only one strand connecting rounds so you can work out any kinks and knit happily onward.

Also, you might find it easier if cast all your stitches onto 1 long needle instead of fiddling separate dpns. Then, just transfer them to the dpns before you start knitting, or knit them onto the dpns on the first round.

Anyway, just copy what you did on the first glove, and even if they're not "right" they'll still match.

I knit some socks with yarn and it was like knitting with rough garden twine BUT it was sooooo soft after a gentle wash and now they're almost nearly my favourite socks.

I'm afraid it's definitely knit two rows and inc on the third. As long as you do the same with the second glove as you did with the first, though, I'm sure you'll have a perfect pair :o)

Now that you're into the realms of tiny yarn and dpns it's only a matter of time before you succumb to the obsession that is Sock Knitting....then you'll need to start a whole new stash of sock yarn.....just you wait and see.
I was in denial only 15 months ago and I'm now onto my 25th pair - not that I'M obsessed. I could stop at any time.

xx

Yep, everyone else has given such good advice, no need to repeat about the increases. The person who suggested you swatch in the round is right. But instead of joining in the round, you may work on two DP needles, and cast on many fewer stitches than 50. Cast on 20, knit across, then push your stitches to the opposite side of the needle to where they resided when you'd knit across (now I remember some comment about a giant I-cord, so maybe this was already suggested), and knit again. Repeat several times. You'll have long yarny threads hanging across the back of each row, but your guage should be correct for knitting in the round, as you are doing all knitting all the time (AKATT). No purls. And do wash and dry. Oh yeah, didn't I start off here saying I had no need to comment? Silly me.

Your socks are gorgeous! What yarn is that? Love Bob's little gloves too.

That Bob is a heck of a math whiz! I'm thinking you would increase on the 3rd row each time so knit 2 rows, then increase on the 3rd round. I've finally gotten semi-adept at using dpns this year but knitting in the round on circulars is so much more fun.

you know, I heard "knitting in the round" and I thought "is this like singing in the round?" then I pictured a group of ladies sitting in a circle literally passing knitting projects from one to the other and making a couple stitches before passing it along and thought... No, that can't be right...

I have found the"Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns" to be a godsend -- I am always modifying patterns or trying to make one up from a sweater or photo I've seen, and this provides a basic foundation instead of my usual random guesswork.

I can't add to the expert glove-y advice other than to enthusiastically cheer you on and say, keep at it, the gloves will be beautiful! I made my first gloves last year and cussed all the way up the thumb gusset, but after the first finger the pattern started to make sense and became almost hypnotically fun.

Love your blog, Laurie -- hugs to you and los gatos.

I was bummed when I broke one of my bamboo double pointed needles trying on a sock in progress. I still use bamboo sometimes, but I liked my bryspun no. 2's so much I bought another pair so I can even knit two sox at a time if I want. Have a glove I started years ago in a box, never finished. But I always have a sock on the needles. Good for waiting anywhere & in meetings. I knit plain AKATT in the movie theater. I knit sox from the toe up so I just need to increase past the toe & go. Some simple patterns can also be knit by "feel." I knit loads of baby blankies for my sister to give as gifts to her patients. Truly I am a knitting junkie.
Just got a cat my hubbie rescued. If she gets ahold of my yarn it gets soggy since she likes to chew on it.